ETNO BRVNARA GROŠ

Rating: 11
Author: Gault&Millau

Ulica Svetozara Miletica, 16000 Leskovac, Serbia

11/20
Gourmet Restaurant

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2 PHOTOS

Location: Leskovac
Chef: Ljiljana Stanojević
Cooking: Balkan | Local | Traditional

Gault&Millau's review 2026

11/20

Gourmet Restaurant

Etno Brvnara Groš builds its identity around the conscious preservation and celebration of its own heritage. The ambiance is strongly marked by traditional elements - wood and stone throughout, and a large barrel within which tables are set, creating an impression that is both authentic and memorable. Staff, tableware, and the manner of service consistently follow the spirit of an older, unhurried time. Begin with rakija, then surrender to an abundant spread of fries, Moravian salad, warm buns, banica, creamy kajmak, and excellent veal soup. Exercise restraint, however - the list of local specialties is only just opening. Leskovac mućkalica served in a bun is essential, as is the onion patty, a barbecue classic with a perfect ratio of meat to fat. Uštipci, ćevapi, homemade sausages, and a generous bagel with kajmak complete the traditional roll call. The house specialties deserve particular attention: grilled peasant meat, tender pork leg with porcini mushrooms, and shepherd‘s steak with fried mushrooms and kajmak each carry the unmistakable stamp of the hearth. Homemade baklava arrives as the only logical conclusion to a meal of such honest and generous proportions.